A Canary Islands story: Part I

It was cold, wet and downright dreary in London. The wintry weather made for a charming Christmas, but once the tree was stripped of its ornaments and thrown on the sidewalk and all holiday cheer had disappeared, we were ready for a break from the cold.


We were ready for balmy weather, soft sand, sparkling waters, and palm trees. We were ready to trade the snow boots in for flip-flops, the heavy jackets in for shorts and swim suits.

Where should we go? Italy? No, temps only get as high as 60 degrees in the summer. Barcelona? No, their winters are gray and drizzly. Africa? We have two kids, ages 6 and 7, and weren't ready for something that exotic. How about the Canary Islands? Those Spanish Islands off the coast of Africa, only a four-hour flight from London.



I tracked down cheap flights on Monarch, a charter airline. Only $200 round trip.


We flew out of Gatwick into Tenerife. It was easy to hop on the Gatwick Express train at Victoria Station and we were at the airport within 30 minutes.


Before we knew it, we had left the snow behind and walked out of the Tenerife Airport onto a tropical island where the air smelled of sweet plumeria.

Tenerife is a touristy place--and most travelers are picked up at the airport in big tourist buses.


We decided to do things a little differently and rented a car.

We traced the island's arid eastern coastline built up with resorts, crossed over to the northern coast and by the time night fell and the sea was aglow with the lights of fishing boats, we rolled into Garichico. We quickly got lost in the village's maze of skinny cobblestone streets, before finally stumbling on the Gara Hotel.

The innkeeper Sonia greeted us with hugs and kisses and her warm, friendly spirit that's typical of people in the Canary Islands. Sonia and my kids became fast friends.

The next morning we woke to a blue skies and views of the turquoise see from the Gara Hotel's veranda.


Garichico sits in the fertile lowlands of Tenerife's northwest tip that's known as the island's "best kept secret." Here you won't find big, fancy resorts or crowded beaches. Rather, you'll stumble upon tiny villages, banana orchards, and a circuit of hiking trails that take you in the mountains where you can take in views of turquoise waters.

The best place to make a home base for exploring this area is Garichico, that's known for its churches dating back to the 1500s, restaurants serving freshly grilled fish on outdoor patios, and coastal sea water swimming pools hewn from volcanic rock.

On our first morning we walk the sea water rock pools created naturally by the lava rock formations. The sun is shining, yet the water isn't warm enough for swimming. In summer, we here the pools are filled with people; we decided that we must return then.


We explore the village and the kids have fun running through the alleyways.

We stumble upon the town square with palm trees and a beautiful old bell tower and church dating back to the 1500s.

Hungry, we stop for lunch at Aristides, a Spanish restaurant with an outdoor terrace right next to the square. We order typical Canarian dishes such as small boiled potatoes served with a cilantro sauce, grilled goat cheese, and a squid stew.