Showing posts with label Barcelona. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Barcelona. Show all posts

Slide show: Barcelona

Everyone who has been to Barcelona in recent years seems to have a pick-pocketing story. On the Metro, along the Ramblas, and at the beach—thieves snatch purses, wallets, cameras.

My husband and I were determined to not lose anything of value so we left our fancy camera at home and brought a crappy, old point-and-shoot that was on its last legs. The thing actually broke on about the fifth day of the trip.

Regardless, we were able to get a few good pictures--and a lot of bad ones. Here's a slide show featuring our photographs.
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The joy of traveling without kids

On our first day in Barcelona, we strolled along the Ramblas, the city's famous walking street, to the Boqueria, a giant food market, where we feasted on a seafood plate piled high with mussels, squid, shrimp, and fish for lunch. We drank beers and cava (Spanish champagne) and took an hour and a half to finish our meal.

Afterward, we followed one of the historical walking tours from a Frommer's guidebook and took in such sights as a hospital dating back to the Middle Ages, the city's opera house, and Palau Guell, Gaudi's first architectural creation.

And there's more: We walked miles and miles all over town, cruising by the fancy shops on the Passeig de Gracia, stopping to see Gaudi's Casa Batllo, and visiting the ancient Barri Gottic, a Gothic Cathedral. We broke for dinner at a hugely popular tapas restaurant, Tapaç 24, where we stood in line for an hour at least, drinking beer throughout the entire wait. For dinner we ate more seafood: fried fish, grilled squid, raw tuna.

After dinner, we walked to La Sagrada Familia (pictured above), the Gaudi-designed church that has been under construction for over 100 years. Begun in 1882, it was the obsession of the architect's life, and the city continues to try to follow through with his wildly visionary plans. According to some estimates, it should be finished by the year 2022.

What time is it I asked my husband? "Oh midnight."

We hopped on the metro back to our hotel.

Want another drink before we go to bed? Sure. We sat in the bar for two hours, sipping sangria and talking.

At 2 a.m. we finally crashed in bed and when we woke the next day it was 3 p.m.

On our first night in Barcelona, we slept 13 hours.

My husband and I were in Barcelona for our 10-year anniversary and we traveled without our two children, ages 4 and 6. And though we both both missed them, when we woke that day at 3 p.m. we looked at one another and said, "We never could have an experience like this with kids."

We certainly never could have slept for 13 hours. We never could have sat at the seafood counter because our kids would have talked us into eating at the pizza stall instead. Our children are adventursome eaters but they have a long ways to go before they'll pop a tentacle into their mouths.

We never could have walked 10 miles in one day. Our kids who are actually really good walkers are capable of two, maybe three or four miles but certainly not that far in Spain's summer heat. It was at least 90 degrees, and my daughter would have complained relentlessly.

In fact, on that first day we might have visited only one sight, maybe La Sagrada Famillia because it's the one thing in Barcelona everyone should see. When you're standing beneath that church, it simply takes your breath away.

Now don't get me wrong. I love my kids, more than anything else in this world. And I love traveling with them and showing them the world. I do wish they could have seen that church, but I know they will get there some day. And this trip--my first vacation without my children--made me realize just how good it can be without the little ones.

Thirteen hours. We slept 13 hours!
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Barcelona: Where to eat in August


In August the locals of Barcelona take off. They close their businesses and leave town for cooler climes.

For tourists visiting in August, this can cause problems. Many of the popular restaurants are closed. When my husband I recently visited, I was particularly frustrated when I learned Inopia was closed. The tapas restaurant run by Alberto Adria, brother of the famed chef Ferran, may be the city's hottest spot, but not in August.

Never fear...many restaurants do remain open, and we easily found a great place to eat for all of the seven nights we were there.

The best resource for finding restaurants is BCNRestaurants.com, which allows you to specifically search for places that are open in August. Go to bcnrestaurantes.com, and click on "Open in August" in the Other Searches column on the right side of the page. Also, keep in mind that many of the restaurants open in August have limited hours and might only be open for dinner while they're open for lunch and dinner throughout the rest of the year.

Maribel's Guide to Barcelona is another great resource. It features a rundown of the city's best restaurants, from divey tapas joints to high-end establishments serving traditional Catalan cuisine, and specifies which ones are closed in August. The 75-page guide is available for free as a pdf.

So where did we eat? Here are four places that we loved and that are open in August:

Commerç 24--We weren't able to dine at the restaurant owned by the brother of Ferran Adria but we did try this place opened by one of his disciples. Carles Abellán worked at Adria's famed restaurant El Bulli two hours north and he brought what he learned back to Barcelona. We opted for the Festival Tasting menu, which features seven tapas courses. But these tapas aren't what you'll find in a tpyical Spanish restaurant. Traditional dishes are deconstructed to the essential ingredients and then frothed up into foams or consolidated into custards. The food is artful and each course is a materpiece. A filo dough straw is filled with creamy cheese, basil, and lime; a mushroom thinly cut into a long ribbon garnishes a vichissoise soup; mussels float in a broth that smells like a rose garden; poached cuttle fish rests on a bed of black rice.

Tapaç 24--Salty, fried fish, the size of paperclips; grilled sweet and buttery squid; spiced, creamy lentils with chorizo; french fries with aioli and hot sauce--traditional Spanish tapas are the stars of the show here and everything is delicious and made with the freshest local ingredients. The atmosphere is casual, and you can easily get by in shorts and a T-shirt. This is the more casual, less-expensive restaurant of Carles Abellán who is also the head chef at Commerç 24 (above).

Bar Mut—This is a locals' spot (i.e., no sangria) where you go to enjoy a leisurely lunch of cañas (small beers) and steamed mussels served in a fragrant broth of herbs, wine, and olive oil, perfect for slopping up with crusty bread. We spent two hours at the bar, drinking, eating, and chatting with our server who spoke perfect English and looked like Orlando Bloom.

Boqueria—On the south end of the Ramblas, this glorious turn-of-the-century food market, officially called the Mercat de Sant Josep, is a feast of the senses with some 330 stalls. We visited nearly every day for lunch. We could grab a crepe (pictured above), a slice of pizza, a skewer of grilled squid, or a sandwich made with Iberian ham and spend only $10 for two people. In August, about 75 percent of the stalls are open.
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10 things to pack on a 10-year anniversary trip

My husband and I are only minutes away from leaving for our 10-year anniversary trip to Barcelona. I'm excited to rekindle our marriage and I've got a suitcase loaded with stuff to make sure we do...

Here are 10 things I packed to help make our vacation memorable...

1) Wedding vows (I dug up the note cards that we read from at our wedding ceremony)
2) Love letters (I also found a bunch of old letters my husband and I wrote to each other when we were first dating; it'll be fun to re-read them)
3) A short dress (My daughter isn't around to tell me that I look silly, so why not?)
4) Candles (for turning a hotel room into a romantic retreat)
5) Cork screw (in case we want to pop a bottle of champagne in our hotel room)
6) Advil (for the next morning)
7) Romantic book (I packed My Life in France, the story of Julia Child moving to Paris with her husband; my husband and I will read it to one another every night)
8) Camera (to record the memories)
9) Journal (I figure it'll be fun to go back and read about our 10-year anniversary trip when we're on our 20-year anniversary trip)
10) A gift (I'm still working on this one. I need to get him something, but what?)
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Barcelona: Where should we eat?

Eating, sleeping, drinking, eating, walking, eating, shopping, eating, sleeping, museum-going...This is what I plan to do on my upcoming trip to Barcelona.

My husband and I are visiting the Spanish city for our 10-year anniversary and eating delicious food will be the focus of our trip.

We'll be visiting in August, and I have already discovered that many restaurants I hoped to try will be closed. Inopia, the tapas spot opened by the brother of famed El Bulli chef Ferran Adrià--Closed! I was practically crying when I read this.

But we have identified some that should have their doors open. We plan to enjoy steamed mussels and canas (small beers) at the casual lunch spot Bar Mut, drink whiskey sours at Gimlet, feast on paella at Barceloneta, and sample Catalan cuisine at Fonda Gaig.

Do you have any suggestions? We're still building our itinerary.
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