Montana road trip: Hamilton to Dillon

We wake up early on our third day in Montana because we have a packed itinerary. Our plan is to continue our drive through the Bitterroot Valley along Highway 93, and then drive over Chief Joseph Pass, crossing the Continental Divide. We'll then cut through the Big Hole Valley along Highway 43, before hopping onto 278, which will take us to Dillon, where we will spend the night.

Here are a few highlights from our day:


1) Blodgett Canyon, Hamilton
Hamilton locals refer to the box canyon just outside of town as a little Yosemite. And as we walk the Canyon Creek Trail, which follows a rushing river, we understand why. Granite peaks loom overhead. Not Half Dome, but still impressive.


2) Spice of Life Eclectic Café, Hamilton
This funky café housed in a 1909 historic building was initially a bank, then a rollicking bar, and now it's one of the best places in town for lunch and dinner. The menu is eclectic, as you'd expect, and you'll find a bit of Caribbean, Thai, Japanese, and Italian cuisine. My husband and I split a Jamaican jerk chicken salad and a bowl of black bean chili. The kids opt for a fruit plate off the children's menu.


3) Sassy Sewing Company, Hamilton
After lunch, we stroll down Main Street. My daughter spots this store selling handmade doll clothes for Barbies and American Girl Dolls. Susan Raye White is the amazing woman behind this shop and she sews at least one new dress a day. She shows us a wedding dress that’s a copy of the Kate Middleton gown. She plans to have it on display at the county fair. My daughter uses her spending money to buy a few things.


4) Lake Como, outside Darby
This pretty little mountain lake framed by snowy peaks has a soft, sandy beach that’s a popular swimming spot with locals. There’s also a hike that takes you around the lake and past a waterfall. Since we spent the morning hiking we opt for an afternoon swim.


5) Big Bear Taxidermy, Darby
Animal trophies are a dime a dozen in Montana and hang in restaurants, saloons, hotels, even the airport. But when you walk into this tiny storefront where the walls are covered in moose, deer, and bear heads, you feel the power of these beautiful animals. Dozens of deep, brown eyes are staring right at you, and it’s a rather arresting feeling.
I ask the taxidermist about a stuffed mountain lion that appears humongous. “Are mountain lions really that big?”

“Well, that’s an especially huge lion,” he tells me.


6) Big Hole National Battlefield
Over 125 years ago U.S. soldiers sneaked up on a Nez Perce tribe camped next to the Big Hole River. Gun shots were fired and almost 90 Nez Perce, mainly innocent women and children, were killed. Thirty soldiers and volunteers also died in the brutal battle. This National Battlefield was created to honor those who died.

In the visitor center, exhibits and a movie tell the story of the battle. The video brings my daughter to tears and she insists that we hike down to the battlefield where tipis made from sticks honor the Nez Perce.


7) Bannack State ParkFrom the Battlefield we drive through the Big Hole Valley, a broad stretch of land with jagged peaks marching along either side. We stop at the ghost town of Bannack.
Bannack was founded in 1862 when John White discovered gold on Grasshopper Creek. As news of the gold strike spread many prospectors and businessmen rushed to Bannack hoping to strike it rich. In 1864, Bannack was named as the first Territorial Capital of Montana. For years it was hopping, but the population started dwindling in the 30s and 40s and then completely disappeared in the 50s. What remains is a row of some sixty buildings, and you can step inside most of them.


8) Dillon
We roll into this little town at about 8 p.m. We'd read that it was named one of "America's Prettiest Towns" in Forbes magazine in 2010, but unfortunately we're unable to explore since it's so late. We drive around and notice the beautiful University of Montana Western campus. We drive by a Patagonia outlet (random place to find one) and downtown's main drag of red-brick buildings, and then grab dinner at Papa T's. Video games line one wall of the restaurant and the kids have fun playing PacMan (only 25 cents!). And then we fill up on pizza, piled high with fresh veggies.

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