BBC: Babies vs. business travellers

This from BBC's Passport blog:
The problem with babies and business travellers is that neither really wants to be on the plane in the first place. And both are prone to tantrums.
Babies are aboard because their parents want them there. Business travellers are there because their bosses or clients want them to be.
The tension between the two groups reaches a fever pitch in the summer, when business travellers have to start sharing their space with throngs of vacationers. That’s when you’ll hear business travellers whining (like babies) about needing special “family” sections on planes, banishing children from business class or reserving certain flights for “adults only”. They express their frustration in-flight by banging noisily on their laptop keyboards, talking loudly with colleagues, or by drinking too much and then laughing out loud (or crying) at movies on their new iPads.
Since most babies can’t talk yet, they don’t really have a say in the matter. But they communicate their dislike of the grouchy old business traveller in other ways — by kicking their seatbacks, shrieking nonstop for hours or smelling up their space with a leaky diaper or vomit.
“I find that most babies are well behaved on flights,” said Amy Graff, Best Western’s family travel expert. “Unfortunately, it’s the ones who misbehave that give others a bad reputation.” With two kids of her own, Graff recommends that when business travellers see well-behaved babies, they should point it out to the parents with a compliment.
In any case, as peak summer travel season approaches, it’s inevitable that the two groups will meet again. And it is the business traveller that needs to take the high road and be the mature one in the relationship. So here is your advice for dealing with:
The crying baby
With a shrill squeal only a mother could love, the crying baby is by far the most frequently noticed type of travelling baby. Business travellers can put up with occasional wails during takeoff or landing, but their blood pressure rises and eyebrows arch when the baby shrieks throughout the flight, especially if it is overnight. To avoid going over the edge and throwing a tantrum, business travellers should pack earplugs or invest in a good pair of noise cancelling headsets, and don’t glare at the parents of a crying baby. “The glares from other travellers make the parents feel more stressed. And then the babies pick up on the stress of their parents and cry even more,” Graff said.
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Photo: Flickr
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Ask Amy: Where should I eat during a two-day visit to Paris?

Question: My wife and I are going to be traveling to Europe for a little over a week at the end of August. We need some help in planning our Paris trip though. We only have two days there and want to make the most of it. We know the big landmarks and will be visiting those but was looking for your expertise in finding a nice hotel for a reasonable price ($100-150 per night) as well as the must hit restaurants. We want to experience the best food and local eateries that Paris has during our short visit.

Have you been to Paris and can you offer any advice?

Answer: Yes! I've been to Paris. In fact, my daughter is named Paris!

I recommend visiting BestWestern.com to find well-priced accommodations. The world's largest hotel family has about three dozen properties in the City of Light. The Grand Hotel De L'Univers in the prestigious Saint German Des Pres, the Quartier Latin Pantheon near Notre Dame Cathedral, the France Europe in the trendy Marais district, and the Ronceray Opera, among several others, are in your price range.

Here are a few restaurant recommendations:

Bistrot Victoires: Classic rustic French cafe near the Louvre. Affordable. Casual. Try the steak and chips and the creme brule.

Chez Georges: 1920s-style bistro. Lively atmosphere. Order the rib roast served with a rich potato gratin.

Rino: Hip spot in the Bastille for dinner. Modern European food.

Mi-Va-Mi: In the heart of the Jewish quarter, try falafel and spit-fired schwarma.

Berthillon: You'll have to line up for a scoop but it's worth the wait at this tiny ice cream shop on Ile Saint Louis.
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Top 5 Ways to Avoid the Crowds in National Parks

Summer is here. Schools are out and families are getting ready to take off on vacation. This means our nation's national parks will start to fill up. These parks, from Yellowstone to Yosemite, allow kids to get up-close with nature and offer great value for families. But they can also become overwhelmingly crowded. For some tips on ways to avoid the crowds, we checked in with award-winning travel writer and photographer, James Kaiser.
1. Get an Early Start
Sunrise is a breathtaking experience in any national park. But most park visitors, snug in their sleeping bags or in a comfy lodge, sleep right through it. Wake up early and you'll be treated to incredible views without the crowds, even at the most popular viewpoints. And don't forget to pack your camera. Sunrise bathes the parks in soft, beautiful light—perfect for taking gorgeous landscape photos.

2. Go for a Hike
Sad but true: Most national park visitors never venture farther than 100 yards away from their cars. Of course, if you're looking to avoid the crowds this statistic is great news. Go for a hike and the crowds will start to thin out immediately. Choose a challenging trail and you'll really get away from the masses. As a general rule, crowds diminish exponentially for every step you take away from the pavement. And remember: hiking trails often lead to the most spectacular viewpoints.

3. Avoid the Hotspots
Most national parks are famous for a specific spot—Yosemite Valley in Yosemite, Old Faithful in Yellowstone, Mather Point in Grand Canyon. But take Robert Frost's advice and choose the road less traveled. It really will make all the difference. Follow the herds and you'll find more herds. Do a little pre-trip research and you'll discover that some of the most beautiful places in any national park are often some of the least well-known.This is where a good guidebook can really come in handy. Plan your trip ahead of time and you'll know exactly where to go—and where not to go—as soon as you arrive.

4. Take Advantage of the Night.
After a long day of exploring and sightseeing, most visitors are eager to head to bed. But nighttime is when Nature puts on one of her finest shows. Most parks are located in remote areas free of light and air pollution, which means clear skies perfect for stargazing. To help visitors enjoy the night sky, many parks offer free astronomy programs. Still need convincing? This year Memorial Day falls within a few days of the new moon, which means dark skies perfect for viewing distant constellations.

5. Pack a Picnic Lunch
Most national park visitors leave themselves to the mercy of park restaurants, which are swamped with crowds on big weekends. The result? Long lines for tables, bathrooms and parking spaces. The solution? Pack a picnic lunch. In addition to saving hours of time and frustration, a picnic lunch will probably be tastier, healthier and cheaper. Best of all: you can enjoy it at a beautiful viewpoint while everyone else is waiting in line!

Photo: Yosemite County Tourism Office
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A new website for road-trippers


Planning to hit the road this summer? Check out the new All American Road Trip site, sponsored by Valero gas station. The snazzy new site with a sleek design offers detailed rout maps for class trips, ranging from a journey along Route 66 to a drive along the Great River Road, tracing the full length of the Mississippi River. You can also build your own road trip.

The sites spits out itineraries that direct you to major cities, national parks, and points of interest, including the locations of Valero stations and convenience stores along the way. You can also check out Yelp reviews for suggestions on local stops.
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Sorry! American Airlines is no longer gate checking big strollers!

Parents, the party is over...American Airlines will no longer gate check certain strollers beginning June 1, 2011.

Large joggers and non-collapsibles will now have to be checked at the ticket counter. So if you've got a little one in tow and want to roll them right up to the gate, you'll have to bring a collapsible or umbrella-style stroller that weighs under 20 pounds.

Thankfully there's no charge for checking strollers.

American isn't the first to slap families with this rule. United has a similar policy. But Delta, Alaska, and Southwest allow all strollers to be checked at the gate.

Photo: Teeny Manolo
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New website magically puts together road-trip itineraries

So you want to go on a family road trip this summer. You're thinking Florida. You have two kids who will want to spend some time at an amusement park and you also hope to squeeze in a few days of hiking and getting out in nature. You'd like to stay a few nights in a hotel and then move onto the next locaion. You have seven days and a budget of $3500.

You could spend hours online doing research and planning, or you could simply let a new website called YourTour know what you want and then presto, it spits out an itinerary that includes recommended attractions, accommodations, and precise driving directions between destinations.

The site is brand-new and currently only puts together itineraries for Florida, Andorra, Spain, and France (where Best Western Hotels have partnered with Your Tour). But stay tuned because the site will be adding new destinations soon. Visit, yourtour.com.
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Tips and tricks for saving on gas this summer

My family will be hitting the road this summer. We've mapped out a week-long trip through Montana that takes us from Missoula, down into the Bitterroot Valley, up to Helena, back down to Bozeman and then onto Billings. We'll be covering about 700 miles.

We hope to make this a budget trip--limiting ourselves to only $150 a day. Sound tight? Yes, especially with gas prices expected to go through the roof this summer.

How will we ever manage to meet our budget goal and keep our gas prices low? We'll follow many of the tips and tricks offered up in a recent New York Times article, "13 Ways to Save on Gas this Summer."

Here's a look at a few of the tips.

GET A GAS APP There are dozens of apps that help users find cheap gas while on the road. GasBuddy.com, offers one of the more comprehensive for iPhone and Android users, with a clean design and estimated drive times to gas stations in your vicinity. Just tap “Find Gas Near Me” or search by city or ZIP code for a list of gas stations sorted by price. You can click Midgrade, Premium or Diesel for those prices. Selecting Map View displays the stations on a map. Another option is AAA’s free TripTik Mobile app for the iPhone, which allows users to search prices for their preferred grade of gasoline.

STAY OUT OF TRAFFIC Google Maps, which comes preinstalled on many smartphones or is available for download, offers an at-a-glance display of road conditions in major cities to help you find the best route around congestion so you don’t burn up extra fuel in stop-and-go traffic. Color-coded lines correspond to the intensity of traffic: green for no traffic jams, yellow for medium congestion, red for heavy congestion, and red-and-black for stop-and-go. Google Maps Navigation, offered through Google Maps for Android, has recently been updated to offer alternate routes to avoid tie-ups.

PAY LESS FOR YOUR RENTAL CAR A cheaper rental will help offset the cost of gas. Check out the booking site Autoslash.com, which searches the Web for discount coupons on car rentals and applies them after you book. It then continually checks for lower rates and coupons up until your trip date, and automatically applies any discounts it finds. Willing to gamble? Consider Web sites like Priceline.com and Hotwire.com, which offer deep discounts to travelers willing to be locked into a preset price before learning what company they’ll be renting from.

For all 13 tips
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Do you feel guilty about leaving the kids behind?

Two years ago my husband and I left our kids--ages 4 and 6 at the time--with the grandparents and hopped on a plane for Barcelona. We stayed out until 2 a.m. every night and slept in until 2 p.m. We walked miles upon miles, exploring the Spanish city, and we spent hours in museums. Most importantly, we reconnected as a couple, reminiscing about old times over pitchers of sangria.

We were away from our kids for five days and while I missed them, I didn't feel a tinge of guilt. We needed that trip.

Turns out that I'm not alone. According to a recent survey by Orbitz, 71% of women do not feel guilty about taking a summer vacation without their kids. This number was even higher than the men polled, though 67% of men would also take that summer trip kid-free sans guilt.

Have you left your kids behind? Did you feel guilty?
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Best Western summer promotion

To kick the summer travel season into gear, Best Western is introducing a special promotion. Now through June 5, Best Western Rewards members who register for the promotion and stay with Best Western three separate times will earn a $50 USD Best Western Travel Card, which can be used like cash at any of the chain’s 4,000 global hotels until November 1, 2011.

And there's more: Best Western Rewards members who qualify for the promotion and stay with at least two separate descriptor hotels (BEST WESTERN and/or BEST WESTERN PLUS, and/or BEST WESTERN PREMIER), will be automatically entered in the brand’s biggest-ever points giveaway and one of the biggest-ever one-time points prize giveaways by any hotel company: The grand prize is 6.5 million Best Western Rewards points – the equivalent of more than a year of free hotel stays. Five second-place winners will receive a $650 Best Western Travel Card. All who register for the promotion will be entered into a daily drawing for a $65 Best Western Travel Card.

Register for the promotion at www.bestwestern.com/jump.
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What's your favorite Best Western?

As the family travel spokesperson for Best Western, I've stayed at dozens of properties all over the country--and most of the time I have my kids in tow.

My children have become so familiar with the brand that they scream out, "Best Western!" every time we pass a hotel while driving.

And on our recent trip to Florida it became apparent that they're becoming hotel connoisseurs. As they were walking from a hotel to the parking lot, I eavesdropped on a conversation in which they were discussing which Best Westerns were their favorites. It was hilarious because they were comparing how many waffle makers various properties had available at breakfast and which hotels had hot tubs and which ones had fast elevators.

Later back at the hotel, I asked them to re-create that conversation and I videotaped it. The end result feels a little forced and my children certainly aren't professional actors but I still think it turned out pretty cute.

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Best Western Fort Walton Beachfront: Stylish, swanky, and brightly colored

Could the decor in the lobby of the Best Western Fort Walton Beach Resort be any cuter? The playful colors--flamingo pink, key lime pie green, ocean blue--recall those days in the 1960s when travelers were just discovering Florida's impossibly white beaches, turquoise waters, and fragrant orange groves.

Cheerful polka dots are everywhere! That's my daughter in the chair--but it could just as easily be famed fashion designer Lily Pulitzer who got her start in Florida as a clothing designer in 1961. Her clothes made with gloriously bright pink, green, and turquoise fabrics would fit right in the lobby at the Beachfront.


Why go in the ocean when you can sit in these gorgeous turquoise blue chairs?


It's a world of color at the Fort Walton Beachfront.


The pool sits right outside the lobby on the beach. Here my son contemplates diving in. He's thrilled when he learns from the friendly woman at the front desk that the pool is indeed heated.


Comfy lounge chairs line the outdoor pool. On a warm sunny day, you just might be tempted to stay here all day.


My daughter tests the water. "It's warm Mom! Come in!"

The Beachfront sits on a white, sugary beach.

Every room facing the Gulf of Mexico has its own private balcony.

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A hair cut in Apalachicola, Fl.


In Apalachicola, Fl., my 6-year-old son announced that he wanted a hair cut. He was hot and sweaty under the Florida sun and wanted a buzz cut.

On the main drag of this history little town that sits on the southern most tip of Florida we found a barber shop. There wasn't even a sign outside but my son spotted the old chair inside.


Turns out the shop dates back to the early 1900s and Lawrence the barber in the house has been cutting hair there since 1961. When he started, he charged 1.25 for cuts. Now the price is $14, still a great deal.


Lawrence is famous. His shop was once featured in Travel and Leisure magazine.
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Florida's Forgotten Coast

As I drove along Florida's north Gulf coast, I kept thinking, Where is everyone?

The flawless stretch of coastline between Cedar Key and Apalachicola was by far the most beautiful part of the state we'd seen on our trip--yet we seemed to be among only a few travelers.

I guess this makes sense. This less-touristy part of the state has miraculously remained untouched by the eager developers who have built ritzy resorts, glittering shopping centers, and exciting amusement parks up and down Florida's coastlines.

Yet still I could couldn't believe that we hardly saw a single sunbather as we drove by mile after mile of blindingly white beach stretching out into the most beautiful turquoise waters littered with dozens of tiny islands topped with a palm tree or two.

This is where photographers come to get that photo of the impossibly blue water surrounding a tiny island of white sand with only a single palm. I figured those things were done in Photoshop...this was real.

This is the Florida that you didn't think exists. This is what many refer to as the "Forgotten Coast." This is where I fell in love with Florida.

Every mile it seemed we wanted to stop...

In Newport we bought some Tuppelo honey from a man on the side of the road.

In Crawfordville we talked with a man named Kenny who was fishing in a river. He showed the kids where an alligator was lounging in the water

In the small town of Carabelle, we pulled over to chat with a man who was restoring an old pirate ship that looked as if it was being built for the set of Pirates of the Caribbean.

After driving by a couple oyster farms my kids finally convinced me to pull over so they could climb atop a mountain of discarded shells.

We drove through dozens of funky towns with gigantic and old trees strewn with moss. The man at a gas station in one had no teeth and I couldn't hardly understand his thick accent but the twinkle in his eyes welcome to this far corner of our country.

We wanted to stop everywhere but we couldn't. We entirely missed Cedar Key, which is supposed to be like what Key West was like in the 1950s. It's known for its art galleries and shallow waters, perfect for sea kayaking.

We didn't have time for Little St. George Island, where you can go hunting for old Indian pottery.

We never made it to Steinhatchee, the scalloping capital of Florida.

We will return to the crook in Florida's panhandle. We will. We will.
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Homosassa Springs State Park, Fl: Where we finally see a manatee


In the morning I let the kids watch a little TV while I packed up. They were fully engaged in an episode of Dinosaur Train when the screen suddenly went blank and the TV started to beep loudly.

"What happened to our show?" the kids screamed.

A message about a tornado warning appeared on the screen. A tornado just east of Tampa was spotted.

We were in Dunedin, about 30 minutes west of Tampa.

We were safe, right? Who knows? As a Californian, I don't know a thing about tornadoes.

We loaded everything into the car and I checked out. I asked the lady at the front desk about the tornado warning. She didn't know a thing about it. I figured that it must not be a big deal then.

We drove off and said goodbye to the charming village of Dunedin. We were headed north to Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park. A ranger in the Everglades told us that this is where we were guaranteed to see a manatee.

It started to rain. Then it started to thunder. Loud roars. We spotted lightning in the distance. My daughter screamed.

I turned on the radio, looking for a local station that would give us weather and traffic reports.

That loud, ear-piercing beeping filled the car. "This is a tornado warning." The tornado had hit Tampa, and was on it's way to Clearwater, traveling at 35 mph. We were about 15 or 20 miles north of Clearwater.

We were moving slowly along US-19, a two-lane highway filled with traffic lights. We came upon a large puddle of water in the middle of the road. Actually it was more like a lake. The cars ahead turned around and so did we. We navigated our way through backstreets to bypass the flood.

By now sheets of rain were falling. I could barely see outside the window. Every five minutes or so, you'd hear a loud roar and then the black clouds would light up.

We stopped at a gas station. Running from the car into the station, we got soaked and looked as if we'd jumped into a swimming pool with our clothes on.

The gas station was filthy and the man behind the counter didn't have any teeth. Another man walked in and he didn't look any friendlier.

"Ummm...should we be concerned about the tornado? We're driving north to Homosassa Springs. Is this safe?"

The man who just walked in gently grabbed my hands. "Let's pray. Dear Lord, please protect this woman and her beautiful children as they drive north....I think you'll be OK."

Thunder struck again. This was loudest roar yet and the windows in the gas station shook and rattled.

We continued our drive north. Another service announcement came on. Tampa was getting hit hard by the tornado--actually now it sounded as if there were several tornadoes.

I called my husband and asked him to check the weather report online. The storm was headed south. Our best bet was to continue north.

Two hours later we reached Homosassa Springs State Park. The thunder storms continued so the park wasn't running it's usual boat tours but we were able to walk through the grounds with our umbrellas. We saw an alligator, stepped inside a center housings all sorts of snakes, and posed outside yet another manatee statue. But where were the manatees?

A small lake sits at the center of the grounds yet we couldn't see a thing.

My kids ran up to a ranger, "Where are the manatees"

"Come with me," she told them.

We walked over to small dock stretching into the lake. She grabbed a wheel barrow filled with lettuce and told the kids to throw it into the water.

"There's one!"

A manatee that looked like a giant baked potato floated over to us. And then another and then another.

Here's a video showing these wonderfully unusual creatures feasting on lettuce.

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Best Western Plus Yacht Harbor Inn: A place on the sea in Dunedin, Fl.

We easily could have stayed for several days at the Best Western Plus Yacht Harbor Inn. We loved everything from the peaceful waterside setting to the colorful artwork in the lobby to the heated outdoor hotel.

This boutique hotel sits at the foot of a small boat harbor overlooking St. Joseph's Sound. You can walk to the shops and restaurants of the small town that seems lost and forgotten among the nearby beach resort towns loaded with high-rise hotels, T-shirt shops, and places to play miniature golf and drive go-karts. The town is quiet, serene, and no building stands taller than a couple stories. It's village-like main drag lined with brick buildings and trees could easily be found in Europe. It seems to be the sort of spot where local Floridans go for a break.

Dunedin was settled by Scotsmen in the 1800s and still holds onto its Scottish roots with shops selling Scottish kilts and every spring the town holds the Highland Games with piping and drumming, dancing, and athletics.


The hotel lobby was recently decorated and features a colorful display of artwork by a local artist.

You can find fish like these in the sound.


Tasteful furnishings in the lobby.


The hotel juts out into the sound that's a playground for birds.


The rooms are bright and cheery.


Every room has a view of the water.


The setting is peaceful and the only noise and activity comes from the flocks of birds perched atop pilings jutting out of the shallow waters. Bald eagles, brown pelicans, wood storks, peregrine falcons, snowy plovers, and blue herons are just a few of the birds who call this area home. You can also spot manatee and loads of fish.


The new hot tub is a great place to relax.


The pool is heated and warm.


Breakfast is included and offered in the adjoining Bon Appetit restaurant. Here my kids are looking for manatees.
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We want to see a Manatee!

Florida loves its manatees. These unusual creatures that look like giant Russet potatoes floating in the water are found in shallow, slow-moving rivers, bays, and estuaries all over the state. Its one of the few places in the world that you can see these rare, endangered species.

Everywhere we went we saw manatee statues and the kids want their picture taken in front of all of them.


We were lucky to finally see a real, living Manatee at the South Florida Museum in Bradenton. In fact, Snooty is one of the state's most famous as he's over 60 years old, the oldest manatee born in captivity.

But we were determined to see one in the wild.

In Naples, we looked into taking a boat tour that promised manatees sightings but we learned that the animals were swimming north in search of cooler waters.

In Bradenton, we were told you could spot them off the Memorial Pier downtown. We stood there for a good 30 minutes. No manatees.

In Dunedin, some people told us they had just seen a manatee off a pier--but he was gone.

And so we hoped that as we traveled north, we'd finally get to see one of these creatures that are often called gentle giants.
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It's pouring down rain in Clearwater!

We inched along in traffic on our way from Bradenton to Clearwater, Fl. The views of the water on the drive were breathtaking yet my kids didn't want to be in the car. They wanted out. I kept reassuring them that we'd get to run around outside once we reached Clearwater Beach, which is known for its long stretch of sand. Yet by the time we arrived it was pouring down rain.

We've found that the weather can change quickly and quite dramatically in Florida. One minute it's beautiful outside and the next dark clouds sweep in and it starts raining.

We sat in the car, looking out at the beach, and we were tempted to go swimming in the downpour, but then we heard a roar of thunder and decided to move onto our next destination, Dunedin, about five miles north.
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Best Western Atrea Manatee Hotel: A

The Best Western Atrea Manatee Hotel is a sparkling, new property in Bradenton, Fl., only an hour south of Tampa and just minutes north of Sarasota. It's a great place to bed down if you want to stay outside of the busy city. Our room was spacious and comfortable and came with a flat-screen TV. My kids especially liked the swimming pool in a tropical setting with palm trees.
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Bradenton: Home to Florida's most famous manatee, Snooty

After looking for shells on Sanibel Island, we drove two hours north to Bradenton. This sprawling suburban town sits right on the Gulf of Mexico, an hour south of Tampa. It's best known for its sparkling white beaches, celebrity residents (Sean Connery!) and orange juice. Tropicana is headquartered here.

Most travelers stop over in Bradenton because it's parked between the artsy resort town of Sarasota and the big city of Tampa. There are two sites worth seeing here--especially if you have kids in tow.

South Florida Museum: Snooty, the oldest manatee born in captivity (1948), steals the show at this museum recounting the history of Florida from prehistoric times to the present. You'll find dinosaur bones, Native American artifacts, and a Spanish courtyard with replicas of 16th-century buildings.

Manatee Village Historical Park: Stroll this collection of old buildings dating back to the 1800s and you can imagine what life was like before the arrival of modern conveniences such as cars and electricity. You'll find a courthouse and church, a one-room schoolhouse, a sugar cane mill, a steam engine, and the ol' Wiggins store. Admission is free.
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A day at Tampa Bay's Florida Aquarium

Over our spring break trip in Florida, we spent so much time driving along the coast, gazing out at pretty pale green ocean. We were ready to take a peak at the creatures who were swimming around in those waters.

Scuba-diving wasn't in the cards with our kids, ages 6 and 8. The Florida Aquarium that sits right in the heart of Tampa Bay on the water was the next best thing. This world-class attraction has brought the wildlife from Florida's sea and river waters indoors. Its tanks are filled with hammer-head sharks, barracudas, alligators, crocodiles, sting rays, sea turtles and a kaleidoscope of brightly colored fish.

My kids especially enjoyed the playful river otters and the touch tank where you can rub your fingers across a shark's back. Here's a video featuring a few highlights from our day.



Five tips for visiting the aquarium
1) Arrive early--or late. This is one of the most popular attractions in Tampa Bay, and it gets unbearably crowded smack in the middle of the day. Arrive right when the doors open or after 2 p.m.
2) Bring your AAA card.
You get a discount.
3) Pack a swimsuit and a change of clothes for the kids. The aquarium has an outdoor area where kids can run around in fountains and squirt each other with water blasters.
4) Pack food. Food in the cafeteria is mediocre. You're better off bringing your own lunch.
5) Go to the shows. When you arrive, a ticket taker at the door will hand you a sheet of paper highlighting the day's shows and times. Make sure to attend a few--especially the river otter feeding. The docent talks are entertaining and your kids will learn something.
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Souvenirs from the sea: Sanibel Island shells

If you find a junonia shell on Sanibel Island you make the front page of the local newspaper. You'll also become headline news if you get your hands on a prized lion paw.

Shelling is a serious business on this barrier island on the Gulf of Mexico just offshore of Fort Myers. The island's white, sugary beaches are blanketed in an array of 400 different species of shells: conch, lightning whelks, cockle, scallops, murex, tulips, olives, coquinas. Yet avid seekers are really only looking for the twisted cone shell with giraffe-like spots, the junonia, which is considered a prized find.

This Manhattan-size island is one of the best places in the world for shelling because of its geography. The northern tip swoops northward into the gulf and its beaches catch shells as if it were a fish net. shells and its east-west torque

We head for Bowman's Beach on the north side of the island. At the visitor center, we're told this is one of the island's most secluded beaches but on the day we visit in the midst of spring break it's packed with people walking up and down the beach along the trail of shell debris. Some were in the water holding nets, trying to trap any treasures carried in by the waves. Despite the mad rush, my kids still walk with a robber baron's hoard of shells--although no junonia. Those are rare.

To learn more about shells, we head for the Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum, where exhibit room features a dizzying array of shells from all over the world: cuban snails that look as if they were painted; cowries the size of a man's fist; bright yellow and purple scallops; a conch that looks like a scorpion; and the world's largest horse conch. The horse conch is the largest shelled mollusk found in the Atlantic Ocean, and it's the Florida State Shell.

We catch a demonstration on how to find shells--something we wish we had done before going shelling. We learn that mornings after storms are the best and the docent tells us about a little girl on the island who recently found junonia. "An adult on the beach found a lion paw that day and tried to convince her to trade but she wouldn't," the docent said.

My daughter wants to head back for Bowman's Beach to find her own junonia but unfortunately, we have a long drive to make that afternoon and must move on.
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Best Western Plus Beach Resort: A sweet spot on the water in Fort Myers Beach, Fl.

The Best Western Plus Beach Resort sits right on the beach, steps from southern Florida's pretty pale green waters. It's the sort of place where you could easily spend a week, walking the sugary white sand beach in the morning, playing a game of shuffle board in the afternoon, and falling asleep every night to the sound of the crashing waves.

Every room has its own private balcony overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, where dolphins frolic in the surf, kite boarders jump over waves, and fiery sunsets turn the water bright orange and red.

The rooms are light and airy, and the beds are comfy and covered with soft white comforters. Many rooms are equipped with small kitchens, and if you're traveling with kids, you can book a two-room suite.

The hotel is located in Fort Myers Beach on the north end of Estero Island; the airport in Fort Myers is only 45 minutes away.
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Best Western Naples Inn & Suites

Florida's Best Western Naples Inn & Suites sits amidst a tropic paradise.

The two-story hotel is surrounded by a jungle of palm trees, ferns, and hibiscus. Skinny pathways wind through the vegetation and lead to the two pretty swimming pools and hot tubs. Breakfast is served outside from a grass-roofed hut. And kids have a blast hitting around balls at the miniature golf course.

You could stay at the hotel all day, or walk three-quarters-of-a-mile to the pristine, white sand beach. Downtown Naples, with its shops and restaurants, is only about two miles from the hotel.
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Beach break: Naples, Fl.

From the Everglades, we drove to Naples, Fl. This luxurious beach resort, two hours west of Miami, sits on the Gulf of Mexico. It's ritzy and glitzy and known as a vacation spot for wealthy Midwesterners. The waterfront is lined with over-the-top mansions and beach-goers wear fine linen cover ups and flip-flops studded with gems.

There's actually a lot to do here--like go to the zoo or the botanical garden or hop on a boat tour that'll take you into the swamps to see manatees. But we did none of that. The sparkling white beach that stretched along the coast for miles was far too tempting; the bathtub warm water in the most beautiful pale green color too inviting. And so we spent nearly an entire day walking the beach and bobbing in the water, and we didn't leave until we saw the sun set.
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Everglades National Park: A river of grass

It's easy to disregard the Everglades. If you drive quickly through this marshy swath of land that stretches across Florida's most southern tip, you'll only see expansive fields of long, wispy grass. After awhile, your children are likely to tell you the scenery outside is boring.

But if you take your time to stop along your drive, walk the boardwalks and bike the trails, you'll find that this massive watershed is crawling with all sorts of critters, big and small.

We drove into the park from Miami along Highway 41, the main road that cuts directly through the park, slicing it in half. For the first several miles, you pass touristy spots advertising air boat rides and the opportunity to see alligators. We drove by those and headed for Everglades National Park and pulled off the road at Shark Valley Visitor Center.

As soon as we drove into the parking lot, we noticed a group of people gathered under a tree, their cameras pointed upward. In a huge nest, a mother owl stood guard over a white fluffy baby that looked like a stuffed animal. "Oh! It's so cute! I want to hug it" my daughter squealed. And that's basically how our day at Shark Valley went. Everywhere we turned we saw wildlife.

Right next to the visitor center, the swampy slough teemed with dopey-looking gar fish floating near the top of the water. An anhinga, a tall wiry black bird, dove into the water and caught one of the fish. After she devoured her meal, she let out a loud shriek. A massive alligator lounging in the water was completely. Oh! And there was another one, and another, and another. When my daughter counted five, she started crawling up me as if I were a tree. "Mommy, I want to go back to the car!"

And then there were the butterflies. The air was thick with them. They fluttered through the air before landing on hot pink thistles that bloomed everywhere, spewing white cotton fluff, spreading their seed. One monarch nearly landed on my daughter's wrist. "Oh Mommy! It's so pretty."

The Everglades stretch 100 miles across southern Florida—a mosaic of saw-grass prairie, cypress swamps, mangrove jungles, tropical hardwood hammock forests, and thousands of tiny islands. Some 700 plant and 300 bird species and the endangered manatee, crocodile, and Florida panther all call this swampy place home. The delicate ecosystem is shrinking and originally ran all the way to Orlando. It's a water-dependent environment and southern Florida is diverting more and more water to land development and farms.

In the visitor center, park ranger Eric Riordan talked about the disappearing habitat and how it's affecting the wildlife. I asked if there were areas where we could see flamingos. As a child, I remember seeing photographs in books of the pink feathered flocks blanketing southern Florida beaches, and I hoped to see something similar. "The Flamingo habitat is gone," Riordan said. "You very rarely see the birds. The Everglades are disappearing. The water is disappearing. That's why we need to fight hard to save this place."

We decided to explore the Everglades on bikes. At Shark Valley, a 15-mile loop trail takes you into the heart of the park, and you can rent bikes and helmets for $7.50 an hour. A tram ride also takes you along the same path.

The path is flat--yet our kids tired out after six miles. It cuts through a slough filled with lily pads the size of frying pans, fuzzy cat tails, red-bellied turtles, and alligators, lots and lots of alligators.

Along the way we passed by at least two dozen. Most sat lifeless in the water yet a few were swimming around--and one jumped right when my daughter was off her bike adjusting her helmet. We asked a ranger if the alligators ever bothered visitors. He said the park had only one incidence when a young boy was riding his bike and fell into the slough directly onto the alligator. The gator clamped down on the boy with his jaws, the mom jumped in the water and scared the animal off. A helicopter swooped in and took the boy to the hospital and he walked away. In other words, you only need to worry if you actually jump on top of an alligator.

At the end of our ride, we passed a mother gator and her 20 little babies. Most gators give birth to 20 to 50 babies yet on average two survive. Most are devoured by the father and older siblings. My son wanted to take one of the babies home, but I made sure that didn't happen. The only thing we took home with us were lots of photographs and you can see those in the slideshow below.
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