Montana road trip: Flathead Lake and Hamilton
On the second day of our road trip we drive an hour from Missoula to Flathead Lake and then we opt to take the scenic route on our drive to the Bitterroot Valley. Here are a few highlights from the day:
1) Mission Mountain Range
We're driving through rural countryside (lots of hay bales) outside Missoula on our way to Flathead Lake, and then, Bam! Jagged, snow-topped mountains are staring us in the face. I'm so startled and excited that I scream. My husband points out that the mountains are spectacular because there aren't any foothills. They shoot right up from the valley floor. This is the moment when I fall in love with Montana and its mountains.
2) Flathead Lake
Who knew? This is the largest natural lake west of the Mississippi. It’s only slightly larger than California's better-known Lake Tahoe but it seems twice as big as it’s long and skinny. When my 5-year-old son first spots the massive expanse of water he screams, “Look! The Ocean!”
We want to get out on the lake and so we rent a canoe for an hour, which costs us $25. This is a splurge since we’re on such a tight budget.
3) Lake City Bakery & Eatery, Polson
We break for lunch at a homey café in downtown Polson. Marilyn Humphrey has owned this local favorite for 41 years and her son wakes up every morning at 3 a.m. to make the doughnuts served at breakfast and hamburger and hot dog buns used at lunch. Soups and stews are a speciality and we settle on bowls of $5 chili loaded with onions and cheese. The beans are perfectly firm, the broth spicy, and the meat moist.
4) Cherries, Flathead Lake
Montana gets way too cold for cherries, right? Not on the east shore of Flathead Lake, which enjoys a surprisingly temperate climate. We stop at the first cherry stand and soon my kids’ mouths and cheeks are covered in red stains. But we spot dozens more stands as we drive around the lake. The orchards, which extend clear down to the lake edge, are absolutely breathtaking set against the deep blue waters.
5) Highway 83
Our plan is to stay the night in the Bitterroot Valley and so we must drive back to Missoula, and then drive for another hour to Hamilton. Rather than take the fast and smooth highways, we opt for the longer scenic route because a guy in a gas station tells me that we’ll probably come across moose, something I’ve always wanted to see in the wild.
Highway 93 stretches for 91 miles between the town of Big Fork on Flathead Lake and Montana Highway 200. It passes through a sparsely populated region with forested valleys and pretty lakes. We never spot any big-antlered animals but we do see more breathtaking mountains, the scenic Swan Lake, and the Morley Canoe Shop with gorgeous hand-carved boats on display.
6) Ice Cream Place, Seeley Lake
The highlight of our stop in Seeley Lake was a spot serving up old-fashioned soft serve. I skip the cone and opt for a huckleberry shake instead. Huckleberries have a blueberry flavor but their flavor is more intense.
7) Hamilton
This former timber town sits in the heart of the lush Bitterroot Valley, an hour outside Missoula. We arrive in the evening and check into the Best Western Hamilton Inn. The retro motel-style property is just blocks from downtown's shopping strip filled with Old West charm. You expect to see cowboys walking down the street and in fact there are a few men sporting hats but there are also a lot of 20-somethings in hiking boots. Hamilton has become a hub for outdoor enthusiasts who enjoy everything from skiing to mountain-biking.
8) Hamilton rabbits
In downtown Hamilton on Main Street, we spot a rabbit hopping across the street. It’s black and white—doesn’t look like the typical wild rabbit. We figure that someone’s pet has escaped and so we follow it. And then a local tells us that there are rabbits all over town. “They’re our town pets. We all enjoy them!”
*To read the complete Montana road trip series, click here. To join conversations about the road trip, check out the On the Go with Amy Facebook page. If you want up-to-the-minute updates, follow @onthegowithamy on Twitter.
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1) Mission Mountain Range
We're driving through rural countryside (lots of hay bales) outside Missoula on our way to Flathead Lake, and then, Bam! Jagged, snow-topped mountains are staring us in the face. I'm so startled and excited that I scream. My husband points out that the mountains are spectacular because there aren't any foothills. They shoot right up from the valley floor. This is the moment when I fall in love with Montana and its mountains.
2) Flathead Lake
Who knew? This is the largest natural lake west of the Mississippi. It’s only slightly larger than California's better-known Lake Tahoe but it seems twice as big as it’s long and skinny. When my 5-year-old son first spots the massive expanse of water he screams, “Look! The Ocean!”
We want to get out on the lake and so we rent a canoe for an hour, which costs us $25. This is a splurge since we’re on such a tight budget.3) Lake City Bakery & Eatery, Polson
We break for lunch at a homey café in downtown Polson. Marilyn Humphrey has owned this local favorite for 41 years and her son wakes up every morning at 3 a.m. to make the doughnuts served at breakfast and hamburger and hot dog buns used at lunch. Soups and stews are a speciality and we settle on bowls of $5 chili loaded with onions and cheese. The beans are perfectly firm, the broth spicy, and the meat moist.4) Cherries, Flathead Lake
Montana gets way too cold for cherries, right? Not on the east shore of Flathead Lake, which enjoys a surprisingly temperate climate. We stop at the first cherry stand and soon my kids’ mouths and cheeks are covered in red stains. But we spot dozens more stands as we drive around the lake. The orchards, which extend clear down to the lake edge, are absolutely breathtaking set against the deep blue waters.5) Highway 83
Our plan is to stay the night in the Bitterroot Valley and so we must drive back to Missoula, and then drive for another hour to Hamilton. Rather than take the fast and smooth highways, we opt for the longer scenic route because a guy in a gas station tells me that we’ll probably come across moose, something I’ve always wanted to see in the wild.Highway 93 stretches for 91 miles between the town of Big Fork on Flathead Lake and Montana Highway 200. It passes through a sparsely populated region with forested valleys and pretty lakes. We never spot any big-antlered animals but we do see more breathtaking mountains, the scenic Swan Lake, and the Morley Canoe Shop with gorgeous hand-carved boats on display.
6) Ice Cream Place, Seeley Lake
The highlight of our stop in Seeley Lake was a spot serving up old-fashioned soft serve. I skip the cone and opt for a huckleberry shake instead. Huckleberries have a blueberry flavor but their flavor is more intense.7) Hamilton
This former timber town sits in the heart of the lush Bitterroot Valley, an hour outside Missoula. We arrive in the evening and check into the Best Western Hamilton Inn. The retro motel-style property is just blocks from downtown's shopping strip filled with Old West charm. You expect to see cowboys walking down the street and in fact there are a few men sporting hats but there are also a lot of 20-somethings in hiking boots. Hamilton has become a hub for outdoor enthusiasts who enjoy everything from skiing to mountain-biking.8) Hamilton rabbits
In downtown Hamilton on Main Street, we spot a rabbit hopping across the street. It’s black and white—doesn’t look like the typical wild rabbit. We figure that someone’s pet has escaped and so we follow it. And then a local tells us that there are rabbits all over town. “They’re our town pets. We all enjoy them!”*To read the complete Montana road trip series, click here. To join conversations about the road trip, check out the On the Go with Amy Facebook page. If you want up-to-the-minute updates, follow @onthegowithamy on Twitter.
