Ask Amy: Kid-friendly restaurants in SF

Question: My husband and I are spending a week in San Francisco with our 15-month-year-old baby. We're staying in an apartment on Nob Hill. We know that SF is a great dining city and we'd like to try out some restaurants. Can you recommend a few kid-friendly places that dish up great California cuisine? Also, we'll have a babysitter one night and want to dine somewhere special .—Rachel, Seattle, Wash.

Answer: Since I live in San Francisco with two kids, I can definitely answer this question for you. My current favorite place is Delifina Pizzeria in the Mission District, where my son and I often go for thin-crust pizzas at lunch. He gets the Margherita spread with a sweet tomato sauce and I like the garlicky Broccoli Raab. Go on a weekday and arrive early; the restaurant opens at 11:30 a.m. After lunch in the same block, grab a scoop of the deliciously creamy ice cream at Bi-Rite Creamery. Favorite flavor: Salted Caramel.

A few options near Nob Hill: Bodega Bistro, where you'll want to try the Nom, shredded green papaya tossed with beef jerky; Bun Cha Hanoi, sweet, thinly sliced pork that you wrap in lettuce leaves; Pho Ga, rice noodle soup with free-range chicken; A La Turca, a funky spot specializing in Turkish cuisine and yummy homemade bread and hummus that you're son will love; Brick, where the fries with malt vinegar aioli are addictive; Cortez, a trendy spot with inventive small plates dishes; and Grand Cafe, where you should go simply for a slice of heavenly banana cream pie that will easily feed a family of three. A child will be welcomed at all of these places.

As for your special evening our, I recommend that you get a cab and head for Bar Tartine in the Mission District. It's small and intimate with elegant, rustic decor. The food is fresh and seasonal. Make a reservation.

Bon appetit!
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10 things to do with kids in Portland


My daughter, Paris, and I spent last week there visiting friends, and we discovered a paradise for families. The city has it all--affordable housing (two-story Craftsman bungalow for $350,000!), public transportation, up-and-coming public schools, nearly 260 miles of bike routes, and more than 200 parks and public gardens, including 5,000-acre Forest Park, the largest U.S. wilderness park within any city's boundaries.

On our trip, I compiled a list of my top kid-friendly spots. Please add your favorite places in the comments section.

1) OMSI. At this amazing science museum, kids can shoot water rockets, fly paper airplanes in a wind tunnel, and build a block house and test its durability during an earthquake.

2) Oregon Zoo. Don't miss Lorikeet Landing, where you can feed the birds, and the Zoo Train, which takes you through the forests of nearby Washington Park, above the International Rose Test Garden, and back to the zoo.

3) McMenamins Kennedy School. Housed in a former school, this hotel is a gathering spot for families. The general public can use the outdoor soaking pool for $5 and you can also catch a movie in the auditorium for only $3.

4) Portland Saturday Market. International food court, kids activities, musical entertainment, and lots of homemade crafts for sale.

5) Portland Aerial Tram. From the South Waterfront, ride in a space-age sphere to the top of Marquam Hill, where you can take in views of Portland's gleaming skyscrapers and leafy neighborhoods, the Willamette River, and majestic Mount Hood (pictured above).

6) Wells Fargo History Museum. Highlights include an authentic stagecoach and a real teletype office where kids can send messages.

7) Portland Children's Museum. Kids can pretend they're dinosaurs and journey through the Triassic, Jurassic and Cretaceous periods; select entrees from the frozen food isle and pick out fresh fruit in the produce area at a miniature grocery store; and panel a wall, connect plumbing fixtures, and take measurements at a hands-on construction exhibit.

8) Powell's. The largest new and used bookstore in the world also has one of the biggest sections for children and young adults. Employees highlight favorite books by posting hand-written reviews on the shelves.

9) Jamison Square. This is the best place to be on a hot day. The focal point of the park is a fountain that simulates a shallow tidal pool. Young types can splash around and cool off.

10) Oaks Amusement Park.
At one of the oldest amusement parks in the United States, you'll find about a dozen old-school rides, from a Ferris wheel and bumper cars to a roller coaster that goes upside down.



Photo credit: Tim Jewett
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How long can you stand to be away from your baby?

Last week, Paris and I went on a mother-daughter getaway in Portland, Ore. In June when I planned the five-night, girls-only vacation, it seemed like a great idea. We'll bond, we'll connect, we'll build memories. But as the departure date neared, I felt sad about leaving behind Dante, my 3-year-old "baby." The day before, I nearly canceled. Paris's enthusiasm for mommy-only time stopped me: "It'll be so fun to be with just you, Mommy," she said. How could I let her down?

On the morning of our departure, I broke down into tears when I said goodbye to Dante. "Don't cry Mommy," he said. "It's OK Mommy." I quickly recovered and thoroughly enjoyed our first few days in Portland. We went berry-picking, played with "flubber" at the OMSI science museum, had a water balloon fight, and read lots of books together. Paris was benefiting from my undivided attention. No tears, no meltdowns, no "I hate you Mommy" tantrums. Just a lot of "I love yous."

On the third night, my husband, Anthony, called: "Dante misses you. He was crying for you at bedtime." My heart ached. Anthony phoned the next morning: "Dante is sick. He has a bad cold. School just called. I have to pick him up." I began to worry. Then Anthony called after picking up Dante at preschool and let me talk to Dante. "I miss you Mommy," he whimpered. "Where are you Mommy?" Anthony said not to worry, but I got off the phone, dialed Southwest Airlines, and changed our flight to return home a day early.

Did I do the right thing? Have you left your kids behind? How long can you stand to be away from your kids?
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Goodmorning Portland!

This morning, I'm a guest on KATU's AM Northwest, an ABC affiliate TV show that airs in the Portland metro area. I'll be talking about traveling with kids and offering up advice on how to remain sane on family vacations. If you caught the segment and are visiting my blog for the first time, welcome.

Here are a few of the tips I'll talk about on the show. Please feel free to add to the list in the comments section.

Involve kids in planning. Dread hearing the words "I'm bored?" Prevent that from happening and get your kids excited about a vacation upfront. Rent movies and read books related to your destination. Get out a map and locate where you're going. Check out the hotel online. If your kids are reading, hand over the guidebooks and let them plan out a day or two of the vacation. Finally, be sure to pick a destination with age-appropriate activities--or even consider letting your kids pick the vacation spot.

Don’t rush. Kids thrive at a mellower pace. If you’re driving, stop every two hours—even if it’s just to let your children run laps around the car. If you’re flying, arrive at the airport at least two hours early. Little ones love airports and watching planes land and take-off. Many airports have children’s play areas: to locate these check out Cheapflights' Kids Airport Diversion Guide.

Remain calm. If you're stressed, your kids will pick up on it and throw a tantrum on the plane or melt down in the car. But if you're cheerful, your kids will travel happily and easily. Tensing up? Find something, whether it's counting to 10 in your head or sucking on a mint, that will calm you down. I like to carry Burt's Bee lavender spray in my purse. When my kids drive me nuts, I spritz some in my face and it relaxes me and prevents me from snapping.

***On the show, I'll also talk about ways to keep kids occupied on the plane and in the car. Click here for a past blog post listing my favorite travel toys.
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How to plan a mother-daughter getaway

I let my 5-year-old daughter, Paris make the call to her friend Tomo in Portland, Ore. "We're coming to visit you! Yeah! Yeah! Yeah!" Paris excitedly screamed over the phone. I could hear Tomo cheering on the other end of the line.

Before Paris starts kindergarten at the end of August, I decided to take her on a special getaway to Portland, Ore., where one of her best friends recently moved. We had a busy summer with little time alone together and Paris was anxious about going to a new school. She seemed to need a few days away with just the girls.

This isn't our first vacation together. She tagged along on my work trip to Waikiki, where we swam with dolphins, took a hula lesson, and ate lots of pineapple. I find that mother-daughter getaways renew relationships and create lasting memories. Paris is always saying, "Remember in Hawaii when we..."

Here are some tips on how you can plan a mother-daughter vacation and make sure things go smoothly on the road:

Plan the trip together. Here's the rule: Mom picks three places and then the daughter choses one of them. Try to come up with three very different options--a destination in the mountains, at the beach, and in the city. And then when your daughter picks your least favorite option, keep your mouth shut!

Visit a place that's new to both of you. Your daughter doesn't want to hear you saying, "And last time with your father...." You'll bond much more easily if you're exploring a destination that's entirely new to both of you.

Avoid shopping-centric trips. Shopping is probably the one thing that you do together at home. There's nothing all that special about it. Try other activities such as taking a hike, browsing a museum, riding bikes, taking a cooking class.

Leave expectations at home. Make sure you're both clear on this rule before you go. No one is allowed to say things such as, "And I thought we would do this..." "I thought this would be more fun..." "I thought you wouldn't be so moody if I took you on a trip..."

Set a budget. Let your daughter know how much you money have to spend, and involve her in the budgeting. It's a great learning experience. To stop your daughter from incessantly asking you to buy stuff, tell her that you'll buy only one souvenir--and be sure to set a price limit.

Invite others to join you. Traveling with other mothers and daughters--or aunts or grandma--can be a lot of fun. If you have a teenager, this might help ease tension.

Have you gone on a mother-daughter vacation? What tips do you have to offer?
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Airport Eats: Oakland's Aunt Anne's


My daughter, Paris, and I are off on a mother-daughter getaway to Portland, Ore. (more on that later). This morning at the Oakland airport, we picked up a pretzel covered in cinnamon and sugar from Aunt Anne's, tucked in away in a small stall in the terminal for Southwest Airlines. Paris and I bought just one to share and we ended up getting a second one. We both agree that these tasty treats are even better than donuts. The pretzel café also has savory offerings, from pretzel dogs to sourdough twists slathered in sour cream and chives.

You can find Aunt Anne's at airports all over the country. Click here for locations.
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Ask Amy: Driving from SF to Portland

Question: My husband and I are driving with our three girls from San Francisco to Portland, Ore. Any places that we should stop along the way? —Tanya, San Francisco

Here are three must-stop spots full of fun for kids.

1) Redding, Calif. Your children will love Turtle Bay, a 300-acre park filled with things to do. In the museum, you can stock a covered wagon as if you were traveling the Oregon Trail. At the botanical garden, you'll find a children's sculpture and fountain decorated with ceramic mosaics. At Paul Bunyan's Forest Camp, you can watch the resident golden eagle being fed. And you can walk across the Sacramento River on the Sundial Bridge, a steel-and-glass pedestrian span designed by acclaimed Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.

2) Jacksonville, Ore. In 1966, this gold rush town was declared a National Historic Landmark District. The best way to take in its charm is on the Trolley Tour (free for kids under 6), passing by over 100 buildings dating back to the 1800s. Your little ones will enjoy the Children's Museum, where they can dress up in vintage dresses and shop in an old-fashioned general store. Got extra time? Catch an outdoor musical performance at the Britt Festival.

3) Eugene, Ore. Oregon's second-largest city is best known for its ivy-clad university. (Go Ducks!) But it's also recognized for its kid attractions. At the Science Factory Children's Museum & Planetarium, your little ones will be in awe at comet- and asteroid-filled light show. Or they might enjoy the Cascades Raptor Center, home to over 50 birds of prey including bald eagles and red-tailed hawks. Need to cool off? Get wet at Splash!, an indoor swim center with slides and a wave pool at Jack B. Lively Memorial Park in nearby East Springfield.
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Fun for the backseat crowd

For our Route 66 road trip, I packed the car with toys and activities for the kids. These are the five things that worked best—in other words, the toys that stopped my 3- and 5-year-old from asking, "Are we there yet?"


1) Books on Tape. These saved us on our trip; every time the kids started to complain, I turned one on. Paris especially liked Felicity: An American Girl. My son preferred Peter Pan. My favorite is Ramona's World. You can get Books on Tape at your library or online at www.booksontape.com.







2) Tangoes Jr. It's hard to explain how this works in words but basically kids use shapes to create images on a magnetic board. My son played with this for hours. $25, www.rexgames.com.








3) Crayola Color Explosion Glow Board. This cool toy is designed for use in the dark—i.e., nighttime driving. Using markers with glow-in-the-dark ink and the "light board," you create pictures that light up and flash like neon signs. For a demo on how the Glow Board works, watch a demo on You Tube. $24.99, www.crayola.com.




4) SmartLap Lap Desk. A portable desk so kids can draw in the car. My daughter packed stickers, pens, glue, scissors, and paper into the roomy storage compartment. $24.99, www.containerstore.com.





5) Mrs. Grossman's Repositionable Paper Dolls. My daughter decorated her lap desk with these. She created scenes and made up stories. You can pull the stickers off the surface without tearing them, which means you can dress your doll for a ball and then put her in a swimsuit. Ten different dolls each come with their own outfits, pet, and accessories. $2.25, www.stickersgalore.com.
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Book holiday travel now

Planning to go away in November or December? If you don't already have your plane and lodging reservations, start making phone calls and checking online right now.

In June, I contacted a travel agent and asked her to book flights to Thailand. I was surprised when she said that she could get us over there but we were wait listed for the return flight.

With airlines offering fewer flights due to rising fuel costs, it can be a challenge to find a flight these days--especially over the holidays, the busiest travel time.

While I was waiting for a confirmation on the flight, I started to look for lodging in Phuket. We are traveling with another family and we wanted to rent a house. Our budget is $300 a night. I looked and I looked and found nothing. Everything in our price range was taken--and even the $5,000 a night places were full.

So we decided to switch our destination to Bali, where we found a villa for rent at $350 a night. I probably emailed 30 other places and all of them were full. I called our agent back (by this time it was July) and asked her to look into Bali. She didn't think she would find something but finally after a week she dug up flights.

Moral of the story: Start thinking about your 2009 holiday travel plans now--and then get on the phone.
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Unplugged travel

Last week, the kids and I escaped to California's Sierra for two nights. We stayed with friends at their cabin on Silver Lake, a quiet spot tucked behind Kirkwood Ski Resort. Here, we made homemade fishing poles from sticks, paddled a canoe to an island, and feasted on fresh rainbow trout. We also did a whole lot of nothing.

The trip was peaceful because we were amidst nature and even more so because we were without Internet or phone service. In fact, the cabin didn't even have electricity. After three technology-free days, I realized that a vacation is much more relaxing when you're not receiving calls from your boss or reading news stories online.

For many of us, it's unrealistic to give up the Internet and the phone while we're traveling. Some of us have to check in with the office on the road (I certainly do) while others want to get online to send emails to friends, browse The New York Times, or look up restaurants in their destination. But on this last trip, I learned that it's important to set boundaries while traveling—because you're really not getting away from it all until you turn off the TV, the laptop, the cell phone, the pager, and the Blackberry.

Here are some tips for turning off technology on your next vacation. If you plan ahead and if you're disciplined, it's actually possible.

1) Talk to your boss and coworkers. Set strict boundaries around when the office can contact you. Maybe you request that they call between 3 and 4 p.m. every day or only if it's an emergency or not at all. And who says you have to tell them that your hotel actually has Wi-Fi?

2) Print out trip details ahead. Research your destination before your departure so you don't spend your vacation looking for things to do online. Also, print out your airline information, Map Quest directions, hotel reservation.

3) Ban the TV. Some hotels might remove the TV from the room for you, or you could cover it with a blanket. Out of sight, out of mind.

4) Pack lots of books and a deck of cards. What will you do with your free time if you're not browsing the Internet? Dig into a good book, play a game of Gin rummy. And there's nothing wrong with staring into outer space.

What do you do to unplug on vacation?
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Route 66 recap

Today, I talked about my family's Route 66 road trip on ABC's nationally syndicated TV show View from the Bay. You can watch the segment by clicking here.

For those visiting the site for the first time, here's a rundown of my five favorite posts from trip.

Route 66 Slideshow

It's an American Girl

Mediocre Music Makers, Erick, Okla.

Cadillac Ranch, Amarillo, Texas

Angel's Barbershop in Seligman, Ariz.

Also, here's a quick recap of our journey with some money-saving tips for family road trippers:

On June 29, my family embarked on a great adventure--driving Route 66 from Santa Monica to Chicago. We took 15 days to do the trip and we gave ourselves a budget of $250 a day--a total of $3,750.

So, did we meet our goal? Barely. Our final total was $3,709.52 (Darn, I should have ordered that chocolate pie in Tulsa!) We had some help. My parents met us in St. Louis for two days and picked up the restaurant bills, and a friend sent $40 for a bottle of wine in Chicago. But generally we pinched pennies.

Here's what we learned:

1) Leave the SUV at home. If you own more than one car, opt for the auto that gets the best gas mileage. It costs less and it's better for the environment. (If we survived 15 days in a sardine can, you can too!)

2) Lighten your load. Carrying 100 pounds in the trunk reduces a typical car's fuel efficiency by 1 to 2 percent. (My husband packed only one pair of shorts, one pair jeans, and a few shirts.) If you have cargo to haul, put it in the trunk instead of on a roof rack, which can decrease mileage by as much as 5 percent.

3) Inflate your tires. Under-inflated tires are a safety hazard and decrease fuel economy by as much as 2 percent per pound of pressure below the recommended level.

4) Drive gently. Excessive braking and accelerating reduces fuel economy, as does driving faster than highway speed limits. Teach your kids to read the speedometer; they'll enjoy making sure you stay under 70 mph.

5) Invest in a cooler. Fill it with healthy snacks such as dried fruit, crackers, salami, cheese, and yogurt. Also, pack a loaf of bread and jars of peanut butter and honey. (Tip: Sunflower seeds are a bad idea. My son threw these all over the car.)

6) Carry refillable water bottles. A family of four can easily spend $20 a day buying water in plastic bottles. We invested in eco-friendly Klean Kanteens, which don't leach chemicals, toxins, or funky flavors.

7) Split entrees.
Unless you're eating at a hoity-toity place in the big city, restaurant entrees are typically humongous--and easily feed two hungry people.

8) Enjoy free entertainment. You can play I-Spy, 20 Questions, or Name that Tune without spending a penny. Also, borrow Books on Tape from your public library, and download free printable car bingo cards from www.aaa.com/roadtrip.

9) Go for hotel freebies. Bed down at places that offer extra value: free breakfast, Wi-Fi, and parking.

10) Dive into the hotel pool. Take a break from the amusement parks and shopping malls where you're bound to overspend. We stayed at Best Western hotels and nearly all of them had pools.

11) Take advantage of discounts. Your AAA card can save you money at hotels, restaurants, and attractions (aaa.com). You can pick up discounted amusement park tickets at Walmart (www.walmart.com) and Costco (www.costco.com). And if you're planning to visit several national parks, consider an annual pass ($80, www.nationalparks.org). Also, ask about hotel rewards programs.

12) Avoid big-name destinations. The Grand Canyon, Disneyland, Chicago--these popular spots will bust your budget. If money's tight, plan to visit these places at a later date when you have more money to spend.

13) Opt for cheap souvenirs. My son collected rocks along Route 66—most of them he just picked up off the ground. My daughter put together a great postcard collection.
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Ask Amy: European Cruise

Question: My family of four is embarking on a European cruise in August. Our trip starts in the United Kingdom. We're staying at the Best Western Master Robert Hotel, near Heathrow airport, for one night. I'm hoping you can offer up tips on things to do in that area. Then we're going to the Southampton cruise port--anything we should see on the way?

Our cruise is stopping in the following locations and I'm hoping you can offer up some advice on things to see in these locations: Vigo, Spain; Lisbon, Portugal; Cadiz, Spain; Gibratar, United Kingdom; Malaga, Spain; Callari, Sardina, Italy; Naples, Italy; Civitavecchia (Rome) Italy; Livorno (Florence/Pisa), Italy; and Villefranche (Nice) France. Finally, the cruise disembarks in Barcelona, where we're staying at the Best Western Hotel Alfa Aeropuerto--what should we see? —Ana Monteiro

Answer: Wow! This sounds like a great trip. You'll be hitting many destinations.

Let's start at the beginning: You have one night at the Best Western Master Robert Hotel, where close to many attractions from Kew Gardens to Legoland, but if you're going to visit only one place I would go to the Hampton Court Palace, a historic residence of kings and queens. My parents took me here when I was a child, and I'll never forget my dad chasing me through the giant hedge maze. During your short time in Southampton, you could drop in the Archeology Museum.

For your cruise, pick up a copy of Rick Steves' Europe 101: History and Art for the Traveler. This book will ground you in art history and enrich your sightseeing experience. Throughout the book, you'll find handy lists of sights that allow you to use your newly acquired knowledge to plan your trip. You could also consider buying Rick Steves' Best of Europe, which offers tips on sightseeing in a few of the destinations you're visiting including Lisbon, Barcelona, Florence, and Nice.

Here's a quick rundown of attractions in each of your destinations:

Vigo, Spain: Outside of town, visit one of Europe’s most revered and historic pilgrimage sites, Santiago de Compostela.

Lisbon, Portugal: Stroll the Avenida da Liberdade. Here, you can walk along the city's most famous avenue, relax at an outdoor cafe, and spot some of the finest architecture around.

Cadiz, Spain: Walk through the charming old quarter with its narrow alleyways, delightful plazas, and flower-filled balconies. Be sure to stop in the Cadiz Cathedral.

Gibraltar, United Kingdom: Take the cable car from Main Street to the top of the Rock and see both Spain in Europe and Morocco in Africa. Also, consider going on a boat ride to visit the dolphins who live in Gibraltar Bay.

Malaga, Spain: Relax at Playa Huelin, a busy beach lined with cafes.

Callari, Sardina: Browse the Mercato di San Benedetto, a colorful fish market where locals shop.

Naples, Italy: Bite into a neapolitan pizza at Da Michele.

Civitavecchia (Rome), Italy: Don't miss the famed Colosseum.

Livorno (Florence/Pisa), Italy: Visit the Leaning Tower of Pisa, of course.

Villefranche (Nice), France: Go to the beach. Just a few minutes from Nice, Villefranche sur Mer is sandier, quieter and less jam-packed with tourists than other Nice beaches.

Barcelona, Spain: Tour Gaudi's architectural marvel, La Sagrada Familia, an unfinished yet astonishing church.

Bon Voyage!
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Sharing trip details

We're back from our Route 66 vacation and settling into life off the road. The kids are eager to reconnect with friends so we have been quite social, which means we're hearing a lot of "How was your trip?"

I always grapple with this question. When a friend inquires about a trip, do they really want to hear about it or are they simply being polite? Let's face it, listening to someone talk about the pretty hotel bedspreads in New York and the bad meal in Dallas can be flat-out boring. Hour-long slide shows are even worse. (The beauty of a blog is that friends and family can skim!)

My mom developed a smart strategy after a vacation in Asia. She selected her five best photos and came up with a story to tell about each one. A friend says that he decides on the No. 1 trip highlight and only shares that, unless friends beg for more. Unfortunately, I'm not that disciplined. I tend to go on and on and then stop myself midsentence and says something like, "You look bored! I'm going to stop talking...How are you, by the way?"

I think there's a solution to this problem. People need to ask better questions. Instead of "How was your trip?," ask, "What was the yummiest thing you ate?" "Who was the most interesting person you met?" "Did you buy a great souvenir?" Specific questions like these have short answers.
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Route 66 slideshow

Lined with old neon signs, vintage cars, and 28-foot-tall rocket men, Route 66 is fun to photograph. Here are my favorite pictures from my recent journey along the Mother Road. You'll also find the show in the column to the right.

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Day 15: Chicago (the final day)

THE STATS
Expenses

Breakfast: free at hotel
American Girl doll, Julie Allbright: $115.76 (plus $112 we saved during our trip)
Lunch, American Girl Cafe, Chicago: $67.26
Bus fare: $3
Dinner, Giordano's, deep-dish pizza Chicago: $71.17
(Thanks to our friend Nancy Robb, who sent us $40, we ordered a bottle of wine!)
Hotel: $135
Gas: $42
Rental car: $50
Sub total: $442.19
Less $40 from Nancy Robb
Less $112 (saved during trip to pay for American Girl)
Total expenses: $332.19

Miles: none

Photograph of the day: Paris and her new doll, Julie Allbright, dining at the American Girl Cafe in Chicago.


Quote of the day: "When do I get another American Girl doll?" Paris asks, only a few hours after I bought her Julie Allbright.

Low point of the day: We lose Julie Allbright's purple crochet hat and retrace our steps. We go back to Banana Republic—no hat! We check the lost and found at Navy Pier—no hat! Paris is crying at this point.

High point of the day: We decide to walk all the way back to the American Girl store because Paris thinks she left the hat at the café. Guess what? They have it. "Hipee! Skipee!" Paris says.
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It's an (American) girl!

There's a new member of our family. It's an American Girl. Her name is Julie Allbright and she's groovy!


At the beginning of our Route 66 road trip, Paris and I made a deal: If she behaved, I would buy one doll at the American Girl store in Chicago. We created a doll fund and put away $8 on each day of our vacation—a lesson in earning and saving.

After two weeks of "behaving" in the backseat of the car, Paris finally made it to American Girl Place (watch the video above). She took the event quite seriously, insisting that I iron her dress, part her hair, and loan her some lip gloss before we hopped on a bus to Michigan Avenue.

I was skeptical of American Girl. I'm easily turned off by toy companies with overzealous marketing. But when we walked into the store and I looked at my smiling daughter, I embraced the moment. I didn't even roll my eyes when we peaked into the hair salon where you can pay up to $25 to have your dolls' hair styled. If our budget wasn't so tight, I would have handed over my credit card for braids in Julie's hair.

Paris arrived at the store knowing that she wanted Julie Allbright, described in the catalog as "a fun-loving girl growing up in San Francisco in the 1970s." Julie comes wearing bell-bottom jeans, a peasant top, and platform sandals--an outfit right out of a store in Haight Ashbury. Paris was oblivious to Julie's 70s look; she simply liked her because "she has long hair."

American Girl offers an assortment of dolls, each representing a different time period. Molly McIntire is a patriotic girl growing up in Jefferson, Ill., during World War II, while Kit Kittredge lives in Cincinnati, Ohio, during the Great Depression. (The new American Girl movie tells the story of Kit's life.) Each doll stars in a historical six-book series. The Felicity Merriman books are set in colonial times during the Revolutionary War; the Julie Allbright books talk about Julie's parents' divorce (that's the 70s!).

After adopting (paying $90 for) Julie, we treated her to a special lunch at the American Girl Cafe. Julie sat at our table in her own special chair and Paris helped her sip tea from a tiny teacup.

As we were eating our fruit kebabs, I looked over at Paris and said, "I love you."

"Do you love Julie too?" she asked.

"Yes, I love Julie too." And I sort of meant it.
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Ariston Cafe, Litchfield, Ill.


The Ariston Cafe may be the classiest place along Route 66. Here at this restaurant in a small Southern Illinois town, you'll find crisp white tablecloths and fresh flowers at every table, a menu featuring a delicious Greek salad, and a dessert cart holding homemade pie. This is a place where your kids should put their napkins in their laps.

Founded in 1924 by Greek immigrant Pete Adam, the Ariston is believed to be the oldest restaurant on Route 66. These days the majority of the Ariston's diners are locals; owners Nick (Pete's son) and Demi Adam say many people in town dine twice a day at their cafe. But the Adams still get motorists who are following the route.

"We see a good number of Americans," Demi says. "But we see thousands and thousands of Europeans. They're taking four to six weeks to drive Route 66. Some are on their honeymoon, and many do it more than once."

When we stopped in for lunch, I flipped through several albums displaying photos and postcards the Adams collected from European friends. There were pictures of people traveling on tandem bikes, others driving in Dukes of Hazard cars, and many in vintage Corvettes.

"Why do Europeans drive Route 66?" I asked Demi.

"What I hear most often is, 'It was my dream.'"
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Day 14: St. Louis to Chicago

THE STATS
Expenses

Breakfast: free at hotel
Lunch, Ariston Cafe, Litchfield, Ill.: $23.20
Gas: $46.58
Dinner, Launching Pad, Willmington, Ill.: $11.93
Hotel: $135
Rental car: $50
American Girl doll allotment: $8
Total expenses: $274.71


Miles: 350
Number of stops: 4
Hours: 8

Photo of the day: The 28-foot-tall Gemini Giant guards the Launching Pad restaurant in Willmington, Ill.


Quote of the day: “I don’t want to drive Route 66 to Chicago because I think it takes longer."

High point of the day: Driving into Chicago at dusk and spotting the Sears Tower.

Low point of the day: Realizing that the prices in Chicago are higher than those in Missouri.
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Ted Drewes Frozen Custard, St. Louis

I wanted to do only one thing in St. Louis: sample frozen custard from Ted Drewes. The custard stand sits on Route 66 on the outskirts of town and dates back to 1931. Many people claim a Concrete from Ted Drewes is the most delicious treat along the route.

My parents met us for the weekend in St. Louis so we loaded into their rental car, a plush Lincoln Continental (a nice experience after driving around for days in a car the size of a sardine can). Of course, we got lost but finally we found Chippewa Street and my parents shouted out when they saw a sign marking Route 66. "Look we're on Route 66! Yeah!" (A lot of the fun of a Route 66 road trip is seeking out original stretches of the route marked with signs.)

Frozen custard is a sweet, creamy treat resembling ice cream but it's richer and contains more eggs. Ted Drewes offers only vanilla, and you can watch them making it right there in the stand. The shop is best known for a specialty called a Concrete, which is custard blended with any of dozens of ingredients, and served in a large yellow cup. Concretes are so thick that you can hold the cup upside down and nothing falls out. The Concrete was the inspiration for Dairy Queen's Blizzard shake.

So how was it? Amazing. Anthony ordered a Tropical Delight blended with fresh macadamia nuts, bananas, coconut, and pineapple; Dante shoveled a Strawberry Shortcake into his mouth; and Paris finished off a Crater Copernicus mixed with hot fudge, devil's food cake, and whipped cream. My parents shared a root beer float and my mom said, "This is the best root beer I have ever had. I'll never be able to drink a float without thinking about Ted Drewes."
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Day 13: St. Louis

THE STATS
Expenses

Breakfast: free at hotel
Lunch: free
Frozen custard, Ted Drewes: $16.89 (treated the grandparents)
Dinner, Square One Brewery, Lafayette Square: free
Hotel: $65
Gas: none
Rental car: $50
Total expenses: $131.89 (thanks to the grandparents picking up the tab on lunch and dinner)

Miles: none

Photo of the day:
A charming village in Europe? No, this is Lafayette Square in St. Louis.


Quote of the day: "Mommy, don't tell me that frozen custard is like ice cream," says Paris, as we're driving to the famous Ted Drewes Frozen Custard. "Tell me exactly what it is. What's in it? How do they make it?"

High point of the day: Sleeping in—the grandparents took the kids overnight.

Low point of the day: Saying goodbye to the grandparents.
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Hooray for hotel swimming pools

If you asked my kids what they liked most about our Route 66 trip, they wouldn't say riding the Ferris wheel at the Santa Monica Pier. Or traveling to the top of the Grand Arch in St. Louis. Or even looking out over the Grand Canyon. I can assure you they would say the hotel swimming pools.

Paris and Dante would be happy driving directly from hotel swimming pool to hotel swimming pool--skipping all the sites and attractions in between. Yes, they thought the Grand Canyon was "cool, but sort of small," and they liked the St. Louis Arch, but "it was so hot in that city." But the hotel swimming pools are "so fun" "the best," "my favorite part of the trip." I now realize why some families just park it at one hotel and spend their days at the pool.
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Day 12: Springfield to St. Louis

THE RUNDOWN
Expenses

Breakfast: free at hotel
Gas: $42.17
Lunch, Main Street Bakery, Cuba, Mo.: $29.83
Dinner: Free!
Hotel: $65
Rental car: $50
American Girl Doll allotment: $8
Total expenses: $195

Miles: 260
Number of stops: 2
Hours: 5

Photograph of the day: The St. Louis Gateway Arch designed by Eero Saarinen and completed in 1965.


Quote of the day: “I have so many things in my mind,” Paris says. “I need to say something so stop talking and listen to me. I don’t know which American Girl doll to get when we get to Chicago. There are too many choices. I want all the dolls. Also, you need to tell me what’s in Chicago so I can think about what I’m going to do there. I know that we’re going to American Girl but what else are we doing there? Are you listening to me? What’s in Chicago?”

Low point of the day: We take a wrong turn and miss the world’s largest rocking chair in Fanning, Mo.

High point of the day: We meet grandma and grandpa in St. Louis. Yeah! Free food! They treat us to a fabulous dinner at Landry’s, housed in the former train station. I order salmon—my first omega-3s in two weeks. We also share a gigantic chocolate brownie sundae.
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Coming soon: Interview with Route 66 Rail Haven Inn owner

For over 50 years the Best Western Route 66 Rail Haven Inn has welcomed motorists traveling the Mother Road. I especially enjoyed our stay in this restored old-school motor court hotel that captures the spirit of Route 66. Next week, I'll publish an interview with the Rail Haven's owner, Gordon Elliott, and offer the lowdown on his vintage cars parked in front of the hotel, his sign collection decorating the outside of the property, and his favorite stops along Route 66. Stay tuned...
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Hula-hooping in downtown Tulsa

Stop every two hours—that’s my No. 1 tip when road tripping with kids. Pull off at a rest stop for a game of tag, park in a small town to grab an ice cream cone, track down an elementary school with a jungle gym—this is the key to keeping children sane in the car. Out in the middle of nothingness? Play a game of "monkey chase the weasel" around the car.

I always pack a few basic toys in the trunk to make our stops more fun. On this trip, we brought a ball, Hula hoop, and jump rope. When we were driving through downtown Tulsa and Paris screamed "Get me out of the car right now!" we pulled over and she swung a Hula hoop around her hips (pictured). In a field of grass in Missouri, the kids got creative with a jump rope. Paris tied the rope around Dante’s belt loop and walked him around like a puppy dog. Does your family take time to stop on long road trips? What are your tricks and tips?
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What should we do in Chicago?

Tonight, in St. Louis, Mo., I’m doing a phone interview with Nick Digilio, who has a talk show on Chicago’s WGN Radio. The timing is perfect because tomorrow we drive to the Windy City, where we'll spend three days. I’m hoping some of those Chicago listeners can offer up tips on what to do in their city. Please share your favorite places in the comments section. Keep in mind we’re traveling with kids and we’re on a tight budget. Also, we’re especially interested in visiting Route 66 attractions as we drove the Mother Road all the way from California. Thanks!
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