A birthday bash in Buttonwillow

California's I-5 is rich in farmland but poor in restaurants. Yes, along this stretch of highway connecting San Francisco and Los Angeles you can easily find an In-N-Out Burger. But a unique eatery? A restaurant special enough for a dad's birthday? Nearly impossible. Regardless, I was set on tracking down a gem. I didn't want my husband to blow out candles stuck in a BigMac.

In the car, I hopped on the Blackberry and visited one of my favorite Web sites: Chowhound.com, where foodies trade restaurant tips. Here, I read about Willow Ranch BBQ in Buttonwillow. "The Willow Ranch serves the best fillet in Southern California," one Chowhound visitor wrote.

We exited the freeway and pulled into the parking lot next to a truck with wheels reaching above the roof of our car. “Why is that car so tall?” Dante asked. As we walked into the dimly lit restaurant, two guys wearing cowboy boots and hats sauntered out. Inside, a statue of a cow holding a sign reading "Tonight's special: fried chicken" greeted us.

So how was it? Amazing. Anthony devoured a half-chicken slathered in a sweet, tangy barbecue sauce. We were all running our fingers across his plate. I enjoyed an iceberg lettuce salad topped with tender grilled chicken. And just as we were all finishing off the kids' fries (served with BBQ sauce instead of ketchup) two servers came to our table with a huge slice of homemade chocolate cake and sang an out-of-tune "Happy Birthday."